Winter is always a treat in New Mexico, especially with a highly prolific El Nino season. Powder was in abundance and the smell of pinon burning punctuated the night. But, the sweetness of spring is always on the horizon. With longer and warmer days it’s difficult not to daydream of escaping into the mountains for a day or weekend.
For Albuquerque residents, the Jemez has always been the gateway to the Rockies. The southernmost extent of the Rocky Mountains, the Jemez mountains are often the first to thaw and offer deeper access into Santa Fe National Forest. For those unacquainted with the range, locals have long sought its parks (meadows), ease of access, countless forest roads, and numerous hot springs.
Early season access will be found on trails lying below 8,000 ft. Battleship Rock is an excellent early-season option. A symbolic landmark on the way to Valles Caldera, Battleship Rock pierces the thick forest of Ponderosas and rises 200 ft above San Antonio Creek and the east fork of the Jemez River. Composed of rhyolite ash and pumice, the towering feature reflects the rich volcanic history of the range. The smell of sulfur will greet visitors before the landmark comes into view.
Forest Trail 137 lies on the east side of Hwy 4 and at the base of Battleship Rock. There’s a large parking lot that’s difficult to miss. The trail offers access to two prized gems within the range: McCauley Warm Springs and Jemez Falls.
McCauley Warm Springs is justly named. The spring has an average temperature of 95 degrees, but what it lacks in warmth it more than compensates with beauty. The springs consist of several pools that cascade into the East Fork of the Jemez River. Due to the two-mile hike to the spring, McCauley sees significantly less use than Spencer Hot Springs located a few miles up Hwy 4.
The deepest of the pools is roughly three feet in depth and is populated by a population of guppies identified as Poecilia reticulata. This population of non-native guppies has miraculously managed to thrive and sustain itself over countless years. No one knows when the guppie was introduced to the isolated spring, but they’ve managed to sustain themselves on the local flora and occasional nibbles on visitors’ toes. It’s no more than a tickle and is reminiscent of an upscale spa treatment.
For those seeking a little more ruggedness from the trail, the trail up to Jemez Falls follows the East Fork of the Jemez River and sees far less traffic than McCauley Warm Springs. The East Fork of the Jemez River is one of the more prolific bodies of water for trout. Browns, Rainbows, and Cutthroat trout populate this isolated stretch of river. Anglers will find luck in the innumerable deep pools that define the tributary.
As far as early-season access to the Rockies goes, it’s difficult to beat the Jemez. Springs, empty trails, and early-season angling await those ready to ditch the ski resorts for a quieter escape.